Top 10 things I love about El Magreb (Morocco)

  1. The hospitality—The hospitality of people here is incredible! Ever since I arrived in Morocco a year ago, I’ve been invited into homes and served tea, bread, and yummy traditional dishes like couscous, tagine, and rafissa. They order me to “Kuli! Kuli! Kuli!” (Eat!, Eat!, Eat!) until I am stuffed and then they get angry if I don’t lie down to take a nap. When I get up to leave, they are always surprised, “Where are you going?” Stay, eat more, sleep over, watch ridiculously dramatic Turkish and Indian soap operas, hold newborn babies, play with children, take selfies, look at funny videos on YouTube, and so on. I love how I can stop by my neighbors’ and friends’ houses at any time of the day and they welcome me. When I don’t stop by for a couple of days, they ring my doorbell or yell out into the street “Rosana! Rosana! Rosana!” until I answer. They sweetly ask how my parents, my sister, and I are doing and then demand that I go over to their house right away to eat. This happens very seldom in the US. Back home, I have to be invited to someone’s house at a specific day and time.
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I went over to the Araab’s house for kaskarut (snack) and ended up getting henna done! I feel like a princess in this town!

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  1. Atay—I think Moroccan hospitality and people are represented in the sharing of atay (Moroccan tea)— always served when there is a guest in the house. It is Chinese green tea with mint or other herbs like wormwood, sage, verbena, with lots and lots of sugar to counter the bitterness. The tea is as sweet as the people. People drink atay at all times of the day and have special ways of preparing it which involve soaking the tea leaves in cold or hot water, boiling the tea again, and pouring it in and out of glasses. They always pour it from a high place so that it foams at the top. The tea is served in small glasses that you can find with all the designs you can imagine at the souk (market)! Atay serves to cool off on a hot summer day or stay warm on a cold winter night.
  2. Khobz—There are so many types of khobz in Morocco!—basic khobz (white bread), hhobz dyal zraa (wheat bread), khobz dyal smida (semolina bread), khobz belboula (barley bread), batbout (pita bread equivalent), harsha (corn bread), msemen (square crepe), meloui (circle crepe), and baghrir (pancake). All the Moroccans I know make their own bread at home and send it to the neighborhood communal oven to be baked or sometimes they bake it in a pan or oven at home. They’ve given me lessons on making all these types of bread, but I normally buy it from the bakery once a week. My neighbors and friends are very surprised that I don’t make my own bread or eat very much. However, I do have my favorites – msemen, which I like to eat with vace de quiri cheese and fig jam. Youssef’s (my counterpart) mom makes the best msemen, bigger and lighter than normal. Once Youssef slipped in a bag of warm msemen into my backpack at the dar shebab (youth center), and I had it for breakfast or snack every day the following week!
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Me making msemen with my host mom back in training (January-April 2015) in Fez.
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A plate of freshly made msemen at the Lafati’s last week.
  1. Eating with my hands—In Morocco khobz or your right hand is the eating utensil. After a year of living and working in Morocco, I now know how to tear pieces of bread or hot vegetables or meat apart with my right hand. (The left hand is Hashuma (shameful) and meant to be used only for cleaning.) As I mentioned in an earlier post, it wasn’t too difficult to learn how to eat with bread or my hand. I just watched how others did it and practiced. I like eating with my bread or my hand much more than eating with a fork, knife, and spoon because the bread is so good and you can soak up all the juices from the vegetables and meat! I think it’s a sensual way to eat, very tactile.
  2. Eating from a communal plate—I also enjoy eating from a communal dish. It feels more like sharing a meal instead of everyone eating from their own plate with forks, knives, and spoons. I feel more connected to the people I am eating with because I have to sit closer to them as we all have to reach the dish in the middle of the table. I also am aware about how much everyone is eating as according to Moroccan eating manners, you only eat from the section in front of you and after eating the vegetables, bread, or couscous, the meat, which is in the center of the plate, is portioned off at the end. There is much less food and meat served than meals in the US, which is overall better for one’s health. There are also fewer dishes to wash! Hahaha!
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Eating sheep stomach.
  1. The sun—The sun is always shining here, which is an instant boost to my mood! It’s energizing. I don’t miss New England gray, rainy days or cold, winter days at all! It does get cold and snow in Morocco, but so far not in my region! People have said that this year’s winter is more moderate than last year’s. It hasn’t rained either. The King of Morocco led people in a series of prayers for rain because the Moroccan agriculture sector depends on rain. Maybe it has to do with climate change, which some people in my community are aware of though it’s not discussed much. I think I do best in warm, sunny climates, and hope that after the Peace Corps I can live in a similar environment.

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    Temperatures this February.

 

  1. Moroccan dancing—I love the popular Moroccan style of dancing. Women move their shoulders and hips in circles, semicircles, back and forth. It’s absolutely mesmerizing. At the women-only celebrations like weddings, women loosen their long beautiful black hair and really shake it- especially women over the age of 50 but even 5-year olds. When women get together, they are boisterous. When I see them in their homes with their husbands and children, they are quieter. My friends have taken me out on the dance floor and taught me how to move, and we have the best time!
  2. Tangerines—The tangerines in Morocco are the best I’ve ever tasted! They are sweet and delicious. I eat them like candy. The name originally comes from the city Tangier. They are most widely grown in Tangier, Oujda, and Agadir and are available in autumn and spring.

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  1. Moroccan ponjsPonjs are Moroccan sofas. They are like twin mattresses with pillows on top, sometimes with wooden boards underneath for support. I like how multifunctional they are. During they day they serve for sitting, eating, watching TV, and entertaining guests, and at night they turn into beds by taking off the pillows and putting on blankets. Most Moroccan homes do not have proper bedrooms or mattresses, but a living room to entertain guests and a den for the family. I’m sure this explains why people seem so connected here. They spend all their time around people, and there is very little privacy. Moroccan culture is very communal. The ponjs also have fun patterns! I had my pillows and ponj covers made locally with a pink, blue, white, and gray flowered material! I went to one of the three shops in my village and picked out the pattern, and they had it done in a week. They delivered the ponjs and covers on a motorbike, and I rode in the back and waved to everyone as I passed by. Hahaha! I hope to bring them back to the US with me.
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My ponjs and one of my new Amazig rugs!
  1. Landscapes—The natural landscapes of Morocco are breathtaking! There is so much diversity too—Morocco has the sea, mountains, and desert. On a trip to the south with my parents this Christmas, I got to see part of the Moroccan desert for the first time. Most of the Moroccan desert is arid land and the dunes are further south near the borders with Algeria and Mauritania. Oases of palm trees and other vegetation emerge where there is a water source. I loved walking around the palmeries. I had thought the oases were separate from the villages and towns, more like natural parks in the US, but they were central to the villages. The houses are made of straw and mud, each with their own patch of fertile land. There are winding walkways through the palmeries, often for the irrigation, the farmers, and the animals. And like the medinas, the old Arab quarters of North African cities, one can get easily lost because there are no street signs, the vegetation is lush, and all the houses are the same brown color of the earth.
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Tagirhoust palmery.
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I would also add Moroccan dates to the list! 
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Here you can see how the oases form around water sources, but the photos don’t justice to the place! You have to come Morocco to feel the landscapes. Merhababikum! Welcome to you all!

When my sister and my parents came to visit in Morocco last September and December, I noticed how integrated I’ve become in my community, how good my Darija (Moroccan Arabic) is, and how much I’ve learned about Moroccan culture. I bump into someone I know everywhere I go in my town, I share meals with neighbors everyday, I give presentations about American culture at the youth center in Darija, at the souks I negotiate prices like a Moroccan, I enjoy eating with khobz or my hand instead of utensils, and I don’t notice the five daily calls to prayer anymore. I have really immersed myself in Morocco, and Morocco has become part of me. I’ve been here a year and a month now, and I wonder how I will change after another year with the Peace Corps.

I have gained so much beyond learning about another foreign country. People in the village often ask me, “Have you gotten use to it?” and I say, “Yes.” Yes, I have gotten use to living and working in Morocco. I have chosen to open my heart to it. My neighbors always say, “Rosana, don’t go. Stay here and get married to a Moroccan man and have babies so that you can stay with us.” I don’t know if I’d go that far, but I know I will carry this unforgettable experience with me forever. I tell my neighbors that I will come back and visit when I have a husband and kids!

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